Shampoos: Is it better without silicones?

Shampoos: Is it better without silicones

Fashion effect or genuine interest in our hair , many brands make them disappear of their formulas. Our lighting to make your choice.

Read also: What to eat to have beautiful hair? 

By Claire Dhouailly – Photo: © Getty Images

We make the point

Silicones, what is it?

These are synthetic oils obtained from silicon . Cosmetics in raffole, they are found in many hair care … They bring slippery and lightness to our hair where vegetable oils are heavier, as well as finishes perfectly soft and smooth.

Where does their bad reputation come from?

If they are not, a priori, not dangerous, the silicones are not the best friends of the hair. ” Present in shampoos, they form a waterproof film that protects from moisture, smooth and shines, but it is the ephemeral ,” says Anne-Sophie Dussert, director of research Alès Groupe-Phyto. Without affinity with the hair, they have no moisturizing or nutritive power. They tend to accumulate on the fiber and on the scalp, and can even limit the penetration of care. To sum up, the hair shines on the outside, but lacks vigor inside. Yet there has been progress, the new generations are much finer and used more sparingly by brands.

How do they replace them?

Each brand has its recipe to bring a minimum of immediate satisfaction. ” We use acacia collagen, which hydrates, sheath and brings brilliance, or extracts of plants rich in mucilages, gums to the conditioner effect ,” says Anne-Sophie Dussert. Guar gum and natural cationic polymers are also on the menu.

To do without it, it changes what?

” Initially, we are often less satisfied with the result, ” warns Anne-Sophie Dussert. The hair is indeed more crisp, less brilliant, especially if it has been bathed in silicones for years. But we must persevere, the hair will gradually take advantage of care, gain in lightness and the scalp will regrease less quickly.

Using a silicone-free shampoo, then a conditioner that contains it, is it ridiculous?

No, because the difference is that the care products or conditioners only apply to the lengths, or even only to the tips for the sera without rinsing. Now, it is the accumulation of silicones in the scalp because of the shampoo that is the most troublesome, because everything starts from there to have a beautiful hair. If a strong treatment effect is sought, it is better to prefer masks and conditioners with little silicone. To recognize them in the list of ingredients, dimethicone is identified: the faster it is mentioned, the more it is present in high dose.

Do organic brands shed these synthetic oils, they are not ecological?

Clearly not. Silicones are inert substances, and even the lightest ones are not biodegradable.

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